• Dr. Z

Interview with Lady Beta

We are so excited to talk to you and learn more about Lady Beta Coaching!

1.  Could you tell us a little bit about yourself and why you decided to start Lady Beta?

First of all THANK YOU for getting me on here and being able to talk shop! I am a climber living in Spokane, WA and feel like the luckiest person in the world. I am the founder of Lady Beta and I help women get stronger through nutrition, mindset and training shifts. I believe that women are not small men and need to train differently in order to accomplish their goals! I know a lot of male trainers out there in the climbing world, but not many women and that is exactly why I started Lady Beta. I tried EVERYTHING I could a few years ago to get stronger, experimenting with a ton of different training plans, diets, nutrition and while I am glad that I did, it took almost 6 years to find what worked for me - 6 years I could have been spending actually climbing harder. I take such pride in coaching women because I don’t want them to have to look for answers for as long as I did. 

2.  Unbeknownst to many, you are an accomplished rock climber and routesetter.  How did this play into the creation of Lady Beta?

Aw shucks! I started my career in the climbing industry as a routesetter and sincerely enjoyed my time that I spent setting. From this I learned movement at a deeper level while also being able to express myself creatively. I loved my time routesetting but did come to a realization after almost 5 years that having a very labor-intensive job was starting to hinder my climbing. I took time off to focus on climbing and am so happy that I did! I learned so much about nutrition in that time, got certified as a health coach and applied a lot of that knowledge towards my own climbing. Last year I was able to redpoint 2 - 5.13bs and boulder v8 in the same year. Talk about my best season ever! While climbing harder things can feel great, I got to a point where I wanted to give back to the climbing community. I knew that if I was capable of breaking out of my comfort zone that I could help other ladies do the same. I want to share my knowledge and help other ladies crush, that is what truly brings me joy! 

3.  Many of our followers have joined your program and they have been thrilled to see progress in their personal climbing abilities!  How excited are you for the growth you've seen with your brand?

BEYOND EXCITED. Seriously. The highest compliment I can receive is seeing someone progress while I am working with them. It is the best feeling in the world to see a client make progress and to have them feel strong and capable. When I started Lady Beta 3 months ago I knew I had big goals and dreams for the company but I never could have thought that I was filling such a large gap in the industry. I knew I had a set of skills that not many climbing coaches in the industry had but I had no idea how excited people would be to learn about hormones and training like a girl! I’ve got some seriously big goals for Lady Beta and am just getting started! Lady Beta is my full-time job and my biggest passion, I am incredibly excited to share what I have learned over the last 11 years of climbing with others!

4.  What is it about you and Lady Beta Coaching that is unique in the training realm?

I think what makes me different for the training realm is that I am not afraid to have a different opinion. While I do love the science behind training I work a lot with anecdotal experiences and how my clients are feeling. Why do it this way? Because often, studies are done on men and then that same logic is supposed to be applied to women, when in reality women might have completely different needs. Women’s bodies are AMAZING at using fat for fuel and we are naturally better at endurance sports than our male counterparts so why would we follow information based at men instead of capitalizing on what we already have? One of the biggest topics that I have become incredibly passionate about in the training realm is teaching women about how their hormones affect both their training and how they are feeling on a day-to-day basis and monthly basis. Women’s hormones fluctuate throughout pretty drastically throughout the month and we can use this knowledge to actually leverage our training, if we know what to look for and how to apply that knowledge. I don’t think this is something I have ever heard anyone in the climbing industry talk about before and I am happy to bring the conversation into the open. It is incredibly important and powerful information that is being overlooked by many in the field. 

5.  What has been the most difficult part of this process of creating Lady Beta for you?

Honestly at first, it was the technology side of things!! I thought at first that I could just “do it all” and tried to be “cost-effective” but now I realize that having help allows me to get more done in a day and I don’t have to be the expert at every single little thing. I knew that if I wanted Lady Beta to be big and I wanted to help a lot of women that I would have to get waaaay out of my comfort zone and take big risks. I get uncomfortable every single day in order to grow. I would consider myself an introvert and really had to push myself to show up everyday on camera and now I actually love it! Similar to climbing, once you feel “comfortable” that’s when you know that growth isn’t happening and you must seek out more stimulus and more difficult situations in order to break out of that plateau (no matter how big or small). Both in my climbing and my business I try to step out of my comfort zone daily. That unsure feeling in your chest? Yes, that’s what I’m going for! Comfort is the opposite of growth. Actively seeking out these situations keeps me on my toes and opens up new opportunities. 

6.  We just have to know.  What is your favorite hold company and climbing holds?

I LOVE THIS QUESTION!! Old school favorite: Teknik (die hard scarabs fan, here) and new school: Decoy (minimalist line). And the more volumes there are the better in my opinion!!

7.  What can we look forward to in the future from Lady Beta and how do people get signed up!?

There is A LOT happening in 2020, but one of the things I am most excited about is being able to reopen spots for my 1:1 coaching program where I work with women on their nutrition, hormone balancing, mindset (around fear of falling, body image and so much more!) all while having a kick-butt training plan in place to accelerate strength gains! It is hands down my favorite way to work with clients, it is intimate, very high touch and the transformation that happens in just 3 months is INCREDIBLE. I will also be offering my custom plans still and my newest program the 6-Week Hangboard Program will also be available still!

If you are interested in learning more, you can follow me @ladybeta.coaching OR head over to my website PS I love getting DMs and messages from people so feel free to say hi!! 

I just want to thank you so much for this interview and your involvement with Climbing Hold News Reviews.  I am super excited for you and know you will do amazing things Chelsea!

Thank you for doing this Dr. Z!!!! :D

Photos courtesy of : Brett Jessen

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